Comment choisir son premier costume ?

How to choose your first costume?

Are you not used to wearing costumes or is this the first time you have dared to wear one? Don't worry. We help you choose THE costume you need. In this blog you will find the answers to all your questions…


You should know that costumes offer several choices depending on the occasion, but firstly, depending on each person's body shape .

This is why, in this blog, we will detail the different types of costumes in order to best help you in your choice.


Double-breasted, straight or 3-piece suit?


There are generally three types of models: the classic suit, the suit with the double-breasted jacket and the three-piece suit.


In this part, we will detail everything you need to know about these three types (their characteristics, body size and what you should remember…).

Double-breasted suit


Double-breasted suits add a lot both in terms of charisma and elegance.

Double-breasted tailor-made suit

Features and Types of Double Breasted Suits:


The double-breasted suit is undoubtedly the most elegant and refined form of suit. Considered outdated, the double-breasted suit has tended to make a resounding comeback in recent years; You only have to take a look at the various current fashion-related gatherings to make this observation!


There are several types of double-breasted suits. We cite a few:

· The six-button double-breasted suit with two functional buttons

· The six-button double-breasted suit of which only the lowest button is functional


Good to know :

The double-breasted suit is always worn closed. Yes, because it is not enough to put this type of suit on your shoulders to be elegant… you must above all know how to wear it!


What body size does the double-breasted suit correspond to?


The double-breasted suit is particularly suitable for slim and tall people. Indeed, the desired goal is to appear smaller than you are or, at least, so that you do not appear much taller than average. Therefore, this type of costume is especially not recommended for strong, short people who risk appearing even smaller when wearing it!

What there is to know:


Choosing this costume model for tall and thin people allows you to break the natural verticality of the silhouette. This is why these people must opt ​​for relatively narrow lapels but not too thin so as not to appear skeletal!

As for pants, it is strictly forbidden to wear them low.


For the jacket, it must have a suitable length. Therefore, a jacket that is too short is strongly not recommended for a tall person because again, it will unbalance their silhouette.


Good to know :


A slim and tall waist can afford all other types of suits. As long as the jacket worn with it is tailor-made and of good quality!


Straight suit


Features and types of straight suits:


Opting for a straight suit means opting for simplicity but also elegance. If this is your first time putting on a suit, choose this classic model. This way, you don't risk a disappointing result.


The straight suit, also called a classic suit, has - as its name suggests - a classic cut with one, two or three buttons maximum.

This type of model is unequivocally the most adaptable of all. The biggest advantage of this type of suit is undoubtedly the fact that it tends to elongate the silhouette. Well cut, it will also refine the overall appearance of the wearer.

Straight tailored suit

What body size does the right suit correspond to?


The advantage of this type of costume is that it fits any body size.


What there is to know :


· It provides freedom of movement

· It is versatile; It can be used for several occasions (work, party, evening, etc.)

· It can be worn both open and closed


Three-pieces suit


Features of the 3-piece suit


The three-piece suit is the symbol of elegance and luxury. It's important to purchase the entire costume at once and pair the pieces together. What characterizes this type of suit is mainly the jacket, the vest and the pants.


The vest must of course be in harmony with the suit and be carefully chosen. To do this, opt for a rather thick fabric so that the vest keeps its shape. Furthermore, we advise you to choose your vest in silk or cotton. Note that it should neither be too tight nor too short. The vest should reach 2.5 cm above your pants. Yes…this doesn’t happen randomly.


What body size does the 3-piece suit correspond to?


Like the classic suit, the advantage of the three-piece suit is that it fits any body size, and especially short people.


What type of fabric to choose?


Now that you know which suit to choose, it's time to choose the right fabric to wear.

It should be noted that the choice of fabric represents a great challenge and requires asking the right questions.


The four fabrics


Wool is obviously the most used material for making costumes. It can be used alone in manufacturing as it can be mixed with many other fibers. Thus, it is not uncommon to combine it with cotton, linen or cashmere.


Linen is an ideal fabric for the warm season. This fabric offers great lightness and interesting resistance. Linen suits are very elegant and suit many people. For the mid-seasons, more classic colors like gray, beige or blue.


It should be noted, however, that this fabric wrinkles very quickly.


Mohair as for it, it is silky and provides a certain dryness which makes the fabric pleasant in spring and summer. Mohair is generally used with wool. This combination of fabric provides a pleasant sensation to the touch.


Cashmere : This type of fabric, both soft and luxurious, adapts to all conditions and for all events.


What type of color and pattern should you choose?


Consider choosing a plain pattern for a first suit. Don't complicate your life!


Patterns - like checks for example - are also an excellent subterfuge, but on condition that the shirt worn is a solid color to avoid the " too much" effect.


For a first suit, choose the color of your suit towards a strong contrast like navy blue.


The interfacing

Costume being made

There are several interlining techniques which we detail just below:


Complete covering (Large measure) is considered the most elegant interlining. The latter is made up of a body canvas, on which breastplates are juxtaposed.

In this technique, the bib is not glued to the front of the jacket, but rather sewn at the shoulders, armholes and is stitched to the lapels.

The advantage of full interlining is that it allows the jacket to best fit the wearer's body shape.


As for half-measure , this technique is today the most widespread, whether made-to-measure or with certain ready-to-wear brands. Indeed, it is a simple and quick construction.


Choosing a semi-canvassed jacket means choosing a piece whose assembly is close to great measure while remaining within a reasonable budget .


Iron-on : The process consists of gluing a fine mesh on both sides of the jacket, from seam to seam. The shoulders, lapels, bib and sides of the jacket are covered with it. The resin is then heated using a heating press which fixes it to the entire woolen material.


It should be noted that this technique makes it possible to produce a costume of average quality at a lower cost and to offer it at a more or less high price.


The Drop: relationship between chest and waist


Before choosing the costume you need, it would first be wise to know the drop of the latter.


The drop is the ratio between the chest measurement and the waist measurement. Common drops are 7 or 8. For example for a drop 8, the jacket will be 50 and the pants 42. So you see, drop 8 will be synonymous with a fitted look.


Of course, the drop is only useful for costumes, it has no use for purchasing a jacket alone.


It is advisable for tall and thin people to find a brand offering a drop 8 or 9 in which they will feel good and above all without any alterations after purchase.


And there you have it, now you know how to choose your first costume!


If you want to discover the astonishing sensation of a Le Cintré Paris tailor-made suit, make an appointment now:

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